The Early Days

We touched down in Gabon at the end of July over 6 years ago.  The regional flight landed in Port Gentil, we disembarked, then stood around the tarmac watching as our bags were unloaded before proceeding to line up at a table where two officers opened and searched bags manually before waving you out of the chain linked fence.  Our driver took us and our six suitcases to the company office to retrieve the keys to our temporary home, a 'suite' across the road in a hotel located right in the middle of the industrial zone.

The hotel was mainly inhabited by offshore and rotational workers.  The parking lot bordered a zoo which was home to a gorilla and chickens but mostly just smelled terrible.  We had a one bedroom suite with a kitchen full of ramshackle supplies, a television with a reliable CNN channel and an unreliable Discovery channel.  There was no working internet connection and nothing other than company offices and work shops even remotely nearby.  I spent twenty two out of twenty four hours a day in that room, terrified by the lizards that sunbathed on the pavement outside our door and even more terrified by trying to use the complicated, often unsafe taxi system to do anything else.  I devoured books on my Kindle, typed emails and blog posts into a Word document to copy and paste into browsers when we walked over to Joe's office after dinner for an internet connection, and became very acquainted with CNN's news reel.  The unfriendly housekeeping staff would stop by daily, using a bottle to squirt bleach on the floor and then smear it around leaving the place reeking for hours.  At night we would hear the quiet knocking on our neighbours' doors through the shutter like windows and a 'Bonsoir' in a semi-seductive tone - the ladies of the night doing their business.

However, the most frustrating part of the entire experience was the dribble of cold water that would come from the shower.  After one failed attempt at washing my hair, Joe arranged for me to use his colleague's empty home in the afternoons for a hot shower, satellite TV and an internet connection.  It felt completely luxurious.

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July first, four years ago, we landed in Stavanger for the first time with our six suitcases.  It was cold and windy as we made our way out to the pick up lane where Joe's boss and a colleague were awaiting us.  It was a short drive to our temporary home, a 2 bedroom apartment on the edge of downtown.  We were advised to head to the grocery store before 6 pm as everything would be closed on Sunday and then we were left to our own devices.  The apartment was small, clean and functional and we were thankful Joe's boss had recently vacated it for his new family home allowing us the space as opposed to a hotel elsewhere.

We had television and internet and when it wasn't raining, I could walk into Sentrum and peruse the shops.  I was nervous, not knowing any Norwegian and feeling out of place after two years in Gabon.  Most of my time was spent writing on this blog and perusing rental listings.

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We landed in Abu Dhabi after a strenuous 13 hour direct flight with a toddler who slept a mere 3 of those hours.  A porter helped us with our six bags out to the taxi stand in the blazing 43 degree heat and we sped down the multi-lane highway downtown to our temporary home.  It's a hotel with a proper front desk and friendly staff and most importantly, cool.

Our 1 bedroom suite feels small for the three of us.  Jasper's bed hardly wedges between our bed and the closet, our suitcases litter the minimal floor space.  The kitchen is equipped with two hotplates and two sets of cutlery and dinnerware.  I ask for a third set so Jasper has something to eat off of.  The television is mostly Arabic minus the standard international news channels but the Wifi connection is fine.  The air conditioning is frightfully cold and is either on or off, despite the temperature gauge.  We hear the traffic below us and the call to prayer several times a day.

In the middle of summer in the desert, it is near impossible to spend any amount of time outside and we're thankful for a large, beautiful shopping mall beside us.  Jasper, used to spending a lot of time outdoors at playgrounds, doesn't fully understand why we can't play outside.  I haul him every morning next door and let him loose in the open spaces of the mall. We wander the aisles of the massive supermarket in the basement trying to find things to cook with our limited resources.  Too nervous to tackle the traffic, this has to do for now.



The early days are difficult no matter where one lands.  It's lonely and overwhelming but also full of anticipation.  Everything is new, every task a challenge.  This time I'm forced to get out every day as being cooped up with a toddler is worse than the alternative.  He needs to eat proper meals at proper times, there's laundry to do and energy (his) to be burned.  In a way, I'm thankful for the distraction.  On my third expatriation, I'm more confident in myself and my capabilities.  I'm less nervous about making mistakes and less shy about asking for help.

I don't have any photographic evidence of these transitory periods but the memories are seared into my mind.  The hardships of my first experience are comedic now and the ease of the second are appreciated.  I wonder what I'll think about the third in a few years time, whether we're moving somewhere new, or repatriating?  As practice tells me, this, too, shall pass.

I gave the blog a little facelift and there are some bugs and pages that need to be reworked. Bear with me.

Having Babies in Norway

Prior to moving abroad, everyone I knew gave birth in Canada and while I personally hadn't gone through the process, I had a general idea of what pre and postnatal care looked like there.  Once I stepped into the expat lane, I was fascinated by all of the countries my new friends had given birth in, regardless of where they're originally from.  From South Korea to France to Dubai, it was interesting to me (even pre-pregnancy) as to how it all went down.  Sure, giving birth is giving birth no matter where you are but each culture brings it's own set of methods.  Norway is no different.  While there are similarities to what I might be familiar with, there are also differences.

On Prenatal Care…

+Midwifery is alive and well in Norway.  In fact, the majority of all babies are delivered by midwives in hospitals without a physician present.  Pregnant women have the choice to use their regular GP (fastlege,) a midwife or a combination of the two for their prenatal care but most doctors will strongly recommend you visit the midwife at least once as they are considered the experts on labour and delivery.

+Pregnancy is treated much less like a medical condition and much more like a normal part of life.  Like many aspects in the Norwegian healthcare system, common sense prevails.  Many tests that are routinely run in North America aren't even mentioned here.  I didn't have a glucose test and strep b was never brought up.  My iron levels were checked with a finger prick a couple of times and I was required to bring a urine sample to every appointment.  I had blood drawn once.  Despite this, maternal mortality rates are one third of the United States and nearly half of Canada.  The same goes for infant mortality rates.  Medical intervention during labour is also much less common.

+There are also private midwives and private physicians that you may choose to go to for care.  Of course, there is cost involved as they are not part of the regular healthcare scheme.  Also, at the hospital, the person that delivers your baby is the person on call regardless of who you've seen for your entire pregnancy.

On Labour…
+Almost all women give birth in hospitals in Norway.  (Home births, at least in this region, are quite rare. I've also never heard of any birthing centres.)  In the Stavanger hospital, there are two places in which one may give birth.  The first is the 'birthing loft' which is for uncomplicated, normal pregnancies and is completely run by midwives and baby nurses.  It is recommended that all women start there unless their situation requires closer medical attention.  Should a situation arise, or should the labouring woman want an epidural, they would be transferred to the first floor.  There really isn't much difference between the two other than the fact that the first floor is outfitted with more medical equipment and there is a physician consulting with the midwives regularly.  My midwife explains that both the doctors and the midwives work very well together and rely on each other and their expertise to assist the labouring women.

+In Stavanger, mothers and babies stay in the hospital for 3 nights after a normal delivery.  There is a hotel within the hospital with an entire floor dedicated to maternity.  Depending on room availability, fathers and other family members may also check in.  The rooms are exactly like a hotel room except they include a large changing table in the washroom and a nursing station is located at the end of the hallway.  Midwives and baby nurses will check on you several times daily and are a phone call away should you need anything.  There was also a standard itinerary for each day including learning to bathe your baby and other health tests for the infant.  The stay is cost-free for mothers but other family members pay for their stay and food.

On Cost…
+The government literally pays you to have children.  Every baby born in Norway is entitled to a Lump-Sum Benefit (including mine!)  In 2014, the sum totalled over 38 000 kroner or over $6000 CAD.  This is to help take care of the extra costs associated with having a child.  The payouts don't stop there.  One also receives 970 kroner per month ($160) until the child turns 18.

+Speaking of money, prenatal care is also completely covered under the national healthcare scheme.  As soon as you are officially pregnant in the eyes of the system, you don't even have to pay the nominal fee per appointment.

On Parental Leave…
+Norway has a very generous parental leave.  One chooses between taking 49 weeks at 100% pay or 59 weeks at 80% coverage.  There are some regulations as to how the leave can be used (read about it here) but essentially, both the mother and the father are entitled to some time off after the arrival of a new family member.

+It is quite common for Dads to take a substantial amount of paternity leave.  During the day, I see many men pushing prams and collecting groceries.

Other...
+Breastfeeding is highly encouraged and very common in Norway.  Breastfeeding in public is also very common and I've never seen a woman use a cape or cover.

+When mother and baby return home, a visit from a health sister will be set up.  She'll come to your home to check in with you and go over the schedule of appointments and wellness checks for your baby.  She'll speak to you about your labour and make sure that any concerns are addressed or will direct you to the appropriate venues.

+High-end strollers and prams are the average here.  Bugaboo, Emmaljunga and Stokke are the most popular on the streets.  More affordable car seat/stroller options aren't even really available here.  I assume with the cash benefits, people are more willing to spend greater amounts on baby gear.

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I had nothing but a positive experience being pregnant and giving birth in Norway.  I have even joked that should we decide to expand our brood in the future, we might have to move back.

I'm curious - have you or someone you know given birth abroad? What was the experience like?  (IE, if Norway isn't in the cards, where should I move next?)

An Escape Up the Coast

Joe was working like crazy.  A combination of being generally understaffed and unsupported with colleagues on holidays, jobs coming up at the same time and problems with equipment kept him at the office to nearly midnight (or sometimes after) for an entire week.  The poor guy would arrive at home, eat an extremely late dinner and slump into bed only to wake up at 6 and do it all again.  We had planned a night away before everything went nuts but of course, had to cancel the night before as Joe just couldn't get away.  When the following week calmed down, the time away was even more needed as I wondered if he might turn up at home one day telling me he quit his job.

Haugesund is a small city just up the coast from Stavanger and while it's only about 80 kilometres, 2 undersea tunnels and a ferry ride make the journey close to two hours by car.  We had no idea if there was really anything there but we've seen it on the map and road signs over the last couple of years and we were curious.  Known for its past in the herring industry and home to Norway's longest pedestrian street, we hoped it would be a quaint and cozy weekend away.

Well, truth be told, it wasn't.  The town itself felt a little run down and that long pedestrian street wasn't anything to write home about.  It wasn't lined with cute cafes and pubs and it lacked the charm we had hoped for.  After a quick peruse Friday evening, we immediately decided a day trip out of Haugesund was in order.

 Haugesund is also home to Norway's National Monument, Haroldshaugen.  Supposedly, Harald Fairhair is buried here.

Saturday after breakfast, we jumped back in the car destined for Langfoss, one of Norway's many waterfalls.  In 2011, CNN featured an article on the 10 most beautiful waterfalls in the world and Langfoss happened to make the cut.  Thankfully, it was impressive.  The sheer length (2 008 feet) combined with the width as the water crashes out over the rocks and into the fjord certainly make it a sight to be seen.  There is an accompanying hike to the top of the falls however, it's deemed as 'Demanding' and demanding in Norwegian standards is most definitely a challenge that I wasn't up for 7 months pregnant.  Instead, we drove the short drive over the bridge that cuts directly through the waterfall, parked and admired the sight from a number of different vantage points.  On the return trip back to Haugesund, we stumbled across a small Polish cafe in Ølen that was serving pierogis which might have been a highlight of the entire weekend.  They weren't the same as the Ukrainian variety I grew up eating regularly but they were pretty damn good.

So, Haugesund itself was a bit of a bust but the waterfall and those pierogis saved the trip.  Joe caught a break from his computer and it was nice to be just the two of us in the car with time to chat about life away from the distractions of home.  Sometimes, that's all that's needed.

Summertime and the Living is Hot!

Sola Beach, Norway

We are in our third summer in Stavanger and this one couldn't be more different than the previous two. (Third! Can you believe it?)  In fact, I think we're breaking records around here.  The last two summers were cool hovering between 15 and 18 degrees most days with high winds and rain making frequent appearances.  There were a couple of days that reached into the mid-twenties but with the accompanying chilly wind off the North Sea, it never actually felt hot.

This summer, by contrast, has felt hot.  Every day the temperature is peaking between the mid and high twenties with an occasional slight breeze although, comparatively, quite calm.  Our long hours of sunlight means it doesn't even start cooling off until 10 pm.  For the first time ever, I'm venturing out without packing along a cardigan or a jacket.  The curtains are drawn almost all day to block out the sun and all housework has taken a backseat as I don't dare turn on an appliance.  We're going through a steady stream of frozen treats and fruit smoothies and I've been scrounging through my wardrobe to find clothes that fit (sort of) and keep me cool. (Funny enough, while home and shopping for maternity clothes, I told sales associates I didn't want anything too summery as it just wouldn't get worn in Norway. I'm kicking myself now.)  The other day, I lounged inside in my bikini and have half-heartedly joked that I might set up a lawn chair in our underground parking, easily the coolest place in the building.  I never would have thought I'd be yearning for air conditioning in Stavanger, yet here I am, spending an extra minute or two in front of the open refrigerator door.  But, I will not complain.  Past Novembers with mere moments of sunshine lurk not far in my memory and unfortunately, not far in the future.

July is a typically quiet month in Norway.  Tourism is at it's peak but the Norwegians are no where to be found.  Known as 'fellesferie,' the month of July marks the time where everyone is on holidays.  Norwegians are encouraged to take their summer vacation time (several weeks at a time) at once leaving offices bare and businesses closed.  Our local cafe is shut for the month; my seamstress has a note on the door informing customers they'll be back at the end of July; even some banks are closed.  Our neighbourhood practically resembles a ghost town and Joe's commute to the office is marked without traffic and plenty of parking spaces.  Those that did stick around Stavanger have been taking advantage of the high temperatures.  Every day I watch groups of people, children and adults alike, who wander down to the pier below our building to dive into the cool water of the fjord.  I'll hear the first attendants well before noon and have been woken up by the last well after midnight. 

This past weekend, we wandered over to Sola Beach for an afternoon.  While we've visited several times before, we've never actually laid out at the beach.  Even on sunny, warm days, the wind batters us and after watching the kite surfers, we usually retreat.  This time, the beach was packed and we laid out our towels with everyone else both of us returning home with a slight sunburn as our normally unexposed skin has lost any immunity it once had to the sun's rays.

While the sweat might be pooling behind my knees and as I make a third trip to the freezer for a popsicle, I'll relish this unseasonably warm, Norwegian summer as it very well could be our last.

The FAQ's

For those of you not on Instagram…

When one announces they're pregnant, it's inevitable that the questions and the comments start coming whether you are ready for them or not.  I remember when we found out at 5 weeks, I couldn't fathom waiting until 12 weeks to spill the beans.  We told our immediate families and a couple of my closest girlfriends over the next few weeks but as we entered the safe zone, something about doing a big attention grabbing announcement didn't feel comfortable.  Of course, we wanted to share the news but the thought of creating a lot of fuss and the subsequent bombardment of questions wasn't attractive to me.  Instead, we slowly told people as we talked to them, one by one (or let our parents spread the news as they had been bursting at the seams.)

Our situation is perhaps a bit more unique which creates a lot of curiosity about how everything is going to happen.  As I continue in this latter half of pregnancy, I might do a few posts about having a baby abroad and specifically in Norway.  Pre-baby, I always thought it was interesting - women do this in every city and in every country around the world and while the result is the same, the process varies.

But, for now, to answer the general questions you might be wondering...

How are you feeling?

Much, much better, thank you.  The first trimester was miserable.  I knew that there was a good chance that I wouldn't be feeling up to par.  I was not prepared to feel completely unlike myself.  I was so happy to say 'au revoir' to that entire experience.  These days, I'm feeling pretty darn good.

When are you due?

Mid-October.

Are you moving back to Canada?

No, much to my mother's chagrin.

Will you give birth in Norway or Canada?

I'm happy to be giving birth in Norway.  Norway is a very family-centric society and the system for pregnancy & birth reflects that.  It's also less medical here which aligns a little more with my own personal beliefs.  My care thus far has been really great.  I love my midwife, I feel well cared for and comfortable.  It also helps that this is my first time around the block - I don't have any expectations as to how things 'should' go so I'm not focussed on the differences.

Will your baby have a Norwegian passport?

No.  While he will be born in Stavanger, he does not meet the criteria for Norwegian citizenship.  We'll apply for a Canadian passport as soon as he arrives.

He? Does that mean you know it's a boy?

Yes! He's a he!

Will your parents come over to help out after the birth?

No, I don't think so.  I'm ok with that.  I've always been pretty independent and I like to have the space and time to figure things out on my own.  In fact, most of my friends that have given birth abroad speak of it as a really special time as a couple and family.  I look forward to that.  However, our parents will be very anxious to meet their first grandson (they both have one granddaughter.)  If we take too long to get a passport and board a flight to Canada, they might just show up on the doorstep.

Am I missing anything? Any other general questions?  I won't guarantee to answer them (you wouldn't believe the amount of weirdly personal questions people will come out with) but you can try!

And thank you to all of you who left 'Congratulations' on Instagram - one of the most unexpected but loveliest things has been feeling the excitement of others on this big transition for us.

A Visitor's Guide to Stavanger

It's that time of year again here on the Western coast of Norway.  The cruise ships have returned bringing with them thousands of tourists to our quaint little city on the North Sea.  I'm not sure how I feel about this - on one hand, it's the mark of Spring and Summer and it's impossible not to be happy about that and there's a jovial sense to the centre of town.  The streets are bustling and the patios are full.  On the other hand, living regular life amongst those that are moseying along, stopping in the most awkward of places can make errands seem more frustrating and tiresome than usual.

Whether you're a cruise ship passenger just here for the day or those that are lucky enough to stick around for a night or two, I have some suggestions for you to make the most of your time in Stavanger.

To See:

-Sentrum:  Pedestrian friendly, small cobblestone paths lined with shops and restaurants - this is the hub of Stavanger.  This is also home to the Stavanger Domkirke, Norway's oldest cathedral.
-Gamle Stavanger (aka Old Stavanger): Directly across the tiny harbour from the central shops and restaurants sits the largest concentration of wooden homes in Northern Europe.  It is impossibly quaint and charming.  Bear in mind, aside from a couple of artist studios, these are actual homes.  I've heard stories of cruise ship passengers letting themselves in thinking they were open for viewing - they're not!
-The Lysefjord: Stavanger's most famous fjord can be viewed a number of ways but the easiest and quickest would be to take the sightseeing boat from Sentrum.  It'll take you down the fjord, you'll see Preikestolen (The Pulpit Rock) from below and you'll return to Sentrum.

To Do:

-There are a multitude of museums in Stavanger (see this post) but the two most popular are The Canning Museum and The Norwegian Petroleum Museum.  I think both are worthwhile, particularly if it's raining.
-Flor og Fjaere: Located off the coast of Stavanger, this is a beautiful island garden and is certainly worth a visit particularly if you are interested in horticulture.  One chooses either a lunch or a dinner trip and it includes a garden tour and a meal.  You can check out our experience here.

-Hike Preikestolen:  While you can quite easily view the Pulpit Rock from a boat, there is nothing quite like hiking it.  This is a full day activity but even so, I might say that it'll be one of the most memorable experiences of your trip.  If you have a car, I recommend taking the Lauvik ferry on the way there and the Tou ferry on the way back for a nice loop (or vice versa.)  Without a car, you can board the Tou ferry from Sentrum and catch one of the buses to the base of the hike.  Either way, budget yourselves 2.5-3 hours for travel there and back and then 4+ hours for the actual hike.  Do note, the hike is challenging.  Dress appropriately and bring food and water. (See our hike here.)
-Drive the Lysebotn road.  If you aren't up for the hike but have a car and wanting a more unique experience, head to the Lauvik ferry station and board the Lysebotn ferry. (See our cruise here.)  You and your car will cruise the length of the Lysefjord and will end in the tiny village of Lysebotn where you can drive up the mountain via its 27 hairpin turns.  The return trip through the countryside is stunning.  (This will also take you to the base of Kjerag, another crazy Norwegian hike albeit longer & more challenging than Preikestolen.)
-Go for a bike ride!  Bike paths are all encompassing and well developed in Stavanger.  There are bikes at the Tourist Desk near the Cathedral and they'll be able to help you find the perfect route. (Heading over to Sverd i Fjell (Three Swords) would be worthwhile.
-Check out Sola Beach.  It's out near the airport (easiest if you have a car) and the white sand and bright blue water is something one doesn't expect in Norway.

To Eat/Drink:

-Coffee: If you're looking to stop of a coffee or tea somewhere, there are places every few steps but my favourites for good coffee are Steam Kaffebar (they also make good fruit smoothies) and Bluebird Cafe (away from the harbour not far from the small lake & bus station.)  I'd also recommend a stop on the colourful street (you'll know when you're there.)  Sjokoladepiken has mouthwatering desserts and chocolate and across the street Bøker & Børst will be brimming with a more eccentric crowd.  (It's also great for a beer.)
-Cafes for lunch:  Ostehuset is certainly a favourite.  You can order off the menu or choose from their ready made selection at the counter.  The decor and atmosphere is typically Norwegian and the food is fresh and yummy.
-Beer:  Tou is the local lager which is a pretty standard and often the cheapest beer.  (It's nothing to write home about but it's fine on a warm day.)  Otherwise, I'd ask for the local brewery, Lervig.  There are options from IPA to Brown to Pilsner and usually a couple of seasonal varieties as well.  On the harbour, you'll find plenty of options with large terraces.  Any will do but I tend to prefer Hansen Hjørnet.  If it's rainy and you want to get out of the elements, definitely head to The Cardinal.  It's more of an English pub style place but the beer selection is unrivalled in the city.  Advice for all, take a deep breath before you get the bill.  A pint of beer in Norway does not come cheap.
-Dinner or a long(er) lunch: Renaa Matbaren and Bølgen & Moi are nice options with a modern, Norwegian menu.  Kitchen & Table is a bit out of the main centre but still within walking distance is another good option.  Our favourite Thai place is near the colourful street and is called Thai Cuisine.  The best Indian in town is easily Mogul India (don't let the seedy pub below scare you away - the food is amazing.  Get the tasting menu. It's worth it.)

There is plenty to do in Stavanger to keep you busy for a few days.  Happy exploring!

Oslo, Take Two

A couple of weeks ago, Joe had meetings in Oslo.  It's normal for him to fly to another Norwegian city for business here and there but often it's just a day trip and usually it's in the middle of the week.  We used to hope for the meetings to partner up with a weekend so that we could go a little early and I would be able to tag along but it rarely happens.  When the meetings came up on a Monday and Tuesday, we decided we'd better take advantage of the opportunity.

The weather in Norway has been so fantastic lately.  I know, for those of you in much of Canada and the Eastern US, you're shaking your head at me but I can't help but be ecstatic over the arrival of Spring.  This winter was really hard on both of us; the daylight hours so minimal and the multitude of wind storms took it's toll but I'm convinced that all of that just makes us appreciate the arrival of the next season even more.  As we looked ahead to the forecast during our time in Oslo, we were both so excited to see the city above zero with clear skies.

It wasn't an exciting or a big trip for us but the change of scenery was really welcome.  Joe's been having a particularly hard time at work lately with tasks piled so high that he hardly takes a break for supper before getting back to the computer until bedtime.  While in Oslo, he was able to work Norwegian hours.  (I mentioned here before that there's a strong worker's union in his industry which limits working hours and no one works overtime.  A day is 7.5 hours and it's uncommon to take work home.  While I wish it applied to Joe, as an expat, there are several shades of grey and he doesn't get to reap those benefits.)  I hadn't been feeling well and had sort of holed up in the house taking it easy on my body which was needed but I certainly was ready to get out and Oslo was the perfect excuse.

Our last trip to Norway's capital city was at the beginning of February and it was cold and icy.  It's quite amazing how one can see a city so differently through a different season and while Oslo failed to impress us our first time around, we did warm (figuratively and literally) a little to it this time.

While in town, we finally made it to the Viking Ship Museum.  While these ships were well-known to be used on the water, they were also used in burials in Norway.  The ship pictured above was brought ashore in 834 for two wealthy women, filled with goods to be used in their next life and became their burial chamber.  Over 1000 years later, the ship was found by a farmer on his land and excavated in 1903.  

#WeAreWinter

Joe and I went to cheer on Norway in the final of the European curling championship held here in Stavanger at the end of November.  Norway has been known for their curling couture long before People Magazine picked it up.

#WeAreWinter is Team Canada's slogan for Sochi 2014 and it seems fitting.  I love the Winter Olympics.  I love watching our nation come together to cheer on our athletes and I love seeing so many countries come together with a love of sport.  Even though these games in Russia have been controversial from the start, I can't help but be drawn in to the hoopla that is the Winter games.

As a Canadian, clearly I'm all for watching the Curling and Hockey but there really is nothing I won't watch.  In fact, there are plenty of sports I don't follow at all throughout the year yet find myself drawn to the TV to cheer on our Canadian delegates.  I can't help but tear up when I watch our flag raised and our anthem played when we've claimed a gold and even when we don't reach the podium, I'm proud of the sportsmanship my country has shown.

I'm not sure if Norway has an official Olympic slogan for these games but it should be #NorwayCanSki.  In the last year and half, it's become blatantly obvious how large of a roll skiing takes in Norwegian society.  In Oslo last February, Joe and I marvelled at the amount of people carting around skis in the city (perhaps not quite to the extent to bikes in Amsterdam but certainly up there.)  In Stavanger, we don't really get lasting snow so we don't see people cross country skiing however we do see people using road skis all year long.  They're essentially a ski with wheels allowing people to practice the sport on pavement.  All winter long, every weekend, skiing competitions grace our television and now that the Olympics are on, the ski atmosphere has only heightened.

Norway has won more Winter Olympic medals than any other nation in the world.  (This article takes an interesting look at that fact and perhaps some of the reasons behind it.)  Even as someone who pays particular attention to the Winter games, before moving here I really had no idea of their success.  When I looked a little closer at the medal table, it's obvious where their strengths lie and perhaps they continue to float under the radar of many nations who don't pay particular attention to skiing.  While the Canadians are busy watching hockey, Norway is dominating the cross country skiing scene.

In other winter sport, Norway is also well-known for its national curling team who is recognizable for two reasons: obviously, their style choices as their heavily patterned pants stick out amongst a sea of black.  Secondly, the skip, Thomas Ulsrud, is pretty handsome.  This year it seems that international media (outside of big curling nations) have picked up on this.

While my allegiances lie with Canada, I'm quite enjoying having two Olympic teams to cheer for this year.  It's also been interesting to watch another winter-centric country's take on the games.  Like home, athletes are gracing milk cartons and cereal boxes.  A large screen TV has been set up in our local shopping mall and Joe's noticed loud cheering in his office during the day, presumably when the cross country events are on.  Tonight, the two countries meet centre ice for Canada's first men's hockey game.  Norway isn't particularly well known for hockey but I'm enjoying a little friendly rivalry between my two homes.  My landlord had a chuckle when I answered the door today in my Team Canada jersey.

Behind the Wheel Abroad

Our Euro Car

I got my driver's license when I was 16 years old.  This is common where I come from - small town Saskatchewan, Canada.  In fact, driving is a major part of most North American's lives.  Our countries are expansive as are our cities and in many cases, public transportation is severely lacking.  Flights are expensive and train travel is practically non-existent.  We're used to driving thousands of kilometres for a trip, through rain, snow and sunshine.

I got my first car in my second year of University.  Prior to that, I always used one of my parents' vehicles (we were a 3 car family.)  Our town of 5000 had no public transportation and was home to two taxis.  Yes, literally 2 taxis.  Despite the post office being 2 blocks from our house, it was normal to drive.  The only places I walked to were school (2 blocks) and the rink (1 block.)  When I moved to Edmonton, a city of a million in Alberta, my time on foot increased mostly due to parking costs but driving was still a major part of my life.  In fact, I couldn't fathom not having a vehicle.  It meant freedom.

When we moved to Gabon, Joe was given a company vehicle which I wasn't allowed to drive.  Like my childhood home, public transit was nearly non-existent and the taxi system and walking was not particularly safe nor efficient so we bought a second vehicle for myself.  It meant everything.  That vehicle made my social life possible in a place where social life was paramount.  Changing my license was no big deal in Gabon - I gave my Canadian permit to an HR representative who showed it to someone in a public office who then attached a passport photo to a white piece of paper which would become my temporary permit.  (Technically, the 3 month temp should have allotted enough time to get my permanent Gabonese license but in actuality, I never received it after 2 years of living there.  We just continually paid the fee and renewed it.)

In Norway, Joe's company leases us a vehicle which I am allowed to drive.  When we arrived, I was nervous to get behind the wheel here.  There are hardly any traffic lights, the roundabouts are intimidating to this Canadian, and the teeny, tiny parking spaces are difficult to navigate.  Securing a home near the train line made it easy for me to avoid.  I walk the 8 minutes to the platform and can be in Sentrum in another 8 minutes - it's actually quicker than if I'd driven myself.  I walk to the grocery store almost daily and for the most part, I really enjoy it.

While I do have a car at my disposal, it requires me to drive Joe the 20 minutes to work at 7 am and pick him up that evening.  It's a hassle and it's usually not necessary.  In the first year of living here, I drove once.  On top of that, getting a license in Norway requires me to pass a driving exam - something no adult ever wants to do again.  As a Canadian (or American or Australian,) we have to surrender our home license within 6 months of moving here and complete the driver's exam within a year.  I procrastinated and missed my window.  Should I want to get a Norwegian driver's permit now, I'd have to complete the classroom sessions as well as the practical exam which would cost me near $2000.

Being from a culture that really values driving, I thought I would feel trapped without a vehicle at my disposal when in fact, I don't at all.  I enjoy walking.  I'm happy to lessen my carbon footprint in a small way and I like the fresh air and the light exercise.  There are times when the weather is absolutely miserable but thankfully, my schedule is pretty flexible and I don't have to leave the house if I don't want to.  The times where I have no choice but to brave the wind and the rain aren't fun but they're few and far between.

I do keep a valid Canadian driver's license allowing me to drive when I'm home and I can still rent cars when abroad although, Joe normally takes the wheel when we're traveling.  He's less nervous about navigating around foreign cities and countries.

Do you (or would you) drive overseas?

[By the way, I posted the answers to last posts' Norwegian name game in the comments.  If you're reading in email, you'll have to click over to the website and scroll down.]

The Norwegian Name Game

Typical Norwegian Countryside

I have the most terrible time pronouncing and differentiating between male and female names in Norway.  Joe laughs at me when his phone rings and I call out the name and completely misuse my pronouns.  I would hear a name and be certain it was female only to find out it was male.  It turns out, I'm not the only one having trouble in the name department.

One of my friends here used to organize field trip activities with the women's group and often, she was in contact with different people through email.  As we were waiting in the car outside the War Museum in Stavanger one day, she abashedly admitted that she didn't know who we were looking for.  She had never encountered the name in the email before and therefore, had no idea if we should be seeking out a man or a woman.

Another friend of mine told me how her company had organized a team building trip outside of Norway in which they were asked to share rooms.  A list was posted in the office and she found herself having to ask for help because wouldn't it be awkward if she accidentally signed herself up to bunk with a man?

Apparently, this is a common enough issue for foreigners as the very first exercise in one of Joe's Norsk workbooks is distinguishing the common gender of a name.  While there are certainly variations that one sees for either male and female (hello, my name is Jay,) I'm curious as to how you'd do on a little quiz.  Let me know in the comments which names you'd peg as male and which names you assume are female.

Svein

Stine

Torstein

Torhild

Tone

Kåre

Bente

Tore

Sigve

Gunn

Sturle

I'll leave the answers in the comments later on so check back and see how you did.

Other interesting notes on the topic of Norwegian names:

+The concept of a middle name (which most people outside of your family don't know) is not used here.  If you see a first name and a second name, Inger Tone Bjelland, you would refer to that person as Inger Tone.

+There is a certain amount of government control when it comes to naming your baby.  Apparently this is to look out for the child's wellbeing so likelihood of finding a Rainbow Pony Starchild here is quite slim.  (Norway is not the only country that does this!)

A Christmas in Norway

As I have previously mentioned, Joe and I are spending this Christmas in Norway.  It's not our first Christmas abroad (we spent one in Gabon) but it's our first in Europe and both of us were quite excited to see what Norway had in store for us during the holidays.  It's such an interesting experience to see the commonalities between cultures during the holidays but also the traditions that differ.

Clues of the holiday to come started popping up around Stavanger in November.  The last public holidays in Norway were way back in May so it feels like there's a lot of build up to this one.  The real holiday kick off came the first weekend of December with a (very) small Christmas Market in Gamle Stavanger and the annual Christmas tree lighting in the main square (evidenced in the photos above.)

Typical to everyday life in Norway, holiday decor is understated and neutral.  I have yet to see a coloured bulb let alone blow up Santas.  In fact, the exterior of houses aren't decorated at all.  We've noticed a few neighbours stringing white lights along their balconies and hanging a glowing star in the window as well as something that looks quite similar to a Menorah perched on a window ledge.  Downtown, however, is really quite endearing - garland and lights drapes above the cobble stone streets and there certainly is that feeling of holiday spirit.

Christmas tree lots popped up all over the city and the grocery store is littered with Christmas versions of everything.  Our toilet paper is now decorated with ornaments, sacks of flour feature a Christmas scene and our favourite part, the juleøl has taken over the beer section of the supermarket.  Before Christmas came to be in Norway, Jul was actually a Viking drinking festival and thus, juleøl remains a big part of the season.  Each of the breweries release a Christmas beer - usually dark & hearty, perfect for the weather.  Pepperkake (gingerbread) is also popular and the meat sections are filled with ribbe (roasted pork belly) and pinnekjøtt (salted & dried lamb ribs.)

The main event in Norway is actually on Christmas Eve consisting of a large meal and a Christmas service followed by the opening of presents, and if you're lucky, a visit from julenisse - a kind of cross between Santa and the Norwegian troll.  Unlike the Santa we're familiar with, this guy isn't as shy and stops over while the children are awake.  He's apparently a jolly guy but can also be a bit nasty if you don't pay him his bribes.  Some households also have children leave porridge, lefse (a traditional flatbread) & beer out in the barn for the nisse, a troll/elf who protects the land and it's thought that if he's not happy, he'll start playing pranks on your family.  1 Juledag and 2 Juledag follow (December 25 & 26) which are public holidays and meant for family time.  All of the shops remain closed although I hear there may be a few pubs open around town.

Joe is meant to work a half day today and then we'll celebrate the holidays together.  The house is fully decorated, the presents bought and later in the week, we'll have a traditional Canadian Christmas meal with friends of ours.  It might be a little quieter than had we flown home to Canada but we're both looking forward to cozy days at home together.

From our family to yours, we wish you a God Jul!

Coffee Talk

There was a time where the moment I got off an airplane and smelled that familiar coffee smell trailing it's way towards my gate that my heart would leap and I'd be exclaiming to Joe, "There's a Starbucks!" Living in the third world did that to me.  There were no fancy cafés and there were certainly no lattes.  Nescafe (instant coffee) ruled the roost.  A couple of restaurants housed coffee machines and cafe au lait was possible although made with damn UHT milk and nothing came close to my beloved vanilla latte or chai latte or caramel macchiato.  Product aside, there also were no coffeehouses that felt cozy inside and played coffeehouse music.  There was no where to bring your computer to type to the sound of coffee bean grinding and frappuccino blending and there certainly wasn't a neighbourhood café where you'd regularly meet your friends to catch up.  We did that in our homes because that was our only option.

Funny enough, when we moved to Stavanger, one of the things I was most excited about was jumping back into café culture.  The thought of creamy, foamy lattes made me salivate and I was so excited at the prospect that I'd have years to start uncovering all of the little cafés in this city.  And uncover I have - over the last year and a half, a certain friend and I meet almost weekly to catch up on life.  Sometimes we visit old favourites and sometimes we visit other places we've walked by and wondered about.

Steam Kaffebar - Stavanger

Starbucks has never been present in Stavanger.  In fact, up until recently, there was only one in the entire country and it was housed in Oslo's airport.  When we first moved to Europe, I'd get my fix when we traveled.  I liked the familiarity of it - I knew what and how to order and it was exciting when that first sip hit my tastebuds after months of being separated.  Joe didn't get it (he's not a coffee drinker) but he'd support my semi-frequent stops in foreign cities.

And then something happened...  On one of our weekend trips, I passed by a Starbucks, smelled that familiar smell, and wondered to myself, 'When is the last time I went in?'  We had been on a million different trips and passed by a million different Starbucks but I wasn't feeling that pull anymore.  I certainly hadn't given up coffee but unbeknownst to me,  I had given up Starbucks.

These days, I find myself looking for that independent café on a quiet street.  The ones that are small and quaint and serve good coffee.  I love the idea of coming in from the cold, getting comfortable, sipping my kaffe latte, people watching and catching up with a good friend that doesn't include take out cups and definitely not drive-through.  Perhaps it's just accommodating to my particular circumstances or maybe it's a sign that after 3.5 years abroad, I need a little less of the familiar and am more comfortable seeking out the other.

Blue Bird Kaffebar, Stavanger

This morning, I woke up and read an article that outlined Starbucks entrance into Stavanger and I'll admit, my heart sank a little.  It detailed the space the company had purchased and that construction had already started in hopes of opening up the chain by the summer 2014.  It's location on the harbour would be perfect for all of those cruise ship tourists who disembark, do a walk around the centre before returning to the boat - now maybe they'd stop by Starbucks and pick up their favourite drink before leaving.  I get it and yes, it'll be successful but a part of me wishes it wouldn't be.  To me, Norway isn't Starbucks, it's the quaint, cozy and locally run cafés and bakeries and I will be mightily disappointed if my favourite haunts can't keep up with the new competition.

(Don't get me wrong, I'm not a Starbucks hater and when I'm in North America, you'll often catch me with that white and green cup gracing my hands, albeit, less frequently than before.  I still prefer to seek out the independent coffeehouses when home but they're fewer and farther between.)

Further Education

Luck had it that our first expatriation landed us in Gabon, a French speaking country, and I had some French education behind me.  Even so, when we arrived, it had been years since I'd spoken a word of French and several more years since I had to use much other than simple conjugation, ABC's, 123's and classroom vocabulary.  For the first several months, I cowered behind my language skills scared to make mistakes, stumbling over words that had long buried themselves in the depths of my brain and fearful that if I did respond and pass off my French, I'd be rewarded with a flurry of words that I couldn't keep up with.  Yet, when you move to a country where 99% of the population does not speak English, it becomes a sink or swim scenario.

Eventually, things started to connect again in my mind and soon I was spending much less time pre-formulating sentences well ahead of any communication.  I credit a lot of my confidence to speaking with our guards and our housekeeper - they were consistent relationships who were patient and understanding as I tried to piece together what I needed.  They didn't correct me or walk away when I wasn't making sense; they worked with me until we were both in complete understanding.

While this was happening, I could feel my grammar slipping away.  No longer was I worried about saying something perfectly, I just wanted to be understood and generally, I was.  I knew I was making a plethora of mistakes and I felt frustrated that while my oral communication had improved tenfold, I wasn't improving on the details of the language.  With French teachers few and far between, I continued to bump along, conversing haphazardly yet fairly confidently.

Of course, the move to Stavanger brought my French language use to a halt.  I had aspirations of meeting a couple of French expat wives who I could meet for coffee once a week but it didn't happen.  A year passed and aside from a couple of jaunts to French speaking countries, I did not utter a word of French.  Some days, I'd translate my day in head to see if I could still do it or I'd turn the TV to France 24 but would quickly lose interest.  Come June, I stumbled across a French language teacher in Stavanger and before I could talk myself out of it, I composed my best email in French detailing that I'd like lessons in the Fall.

Since the end of August, I've met with a lovely French woman once per week for 1.5 hours at her home.  During my first lesson we completed a placement test where my teacher remarked that my oral communication was strong but my written was lacking.  I found this interesting as my entire French education, I felt the reverse, a fairly common notion for anyone who has learned a language in a classroom with more pen to paper than anything else.

From "Bonjour" to "À la semaine prochaine" we do not speak a word of English.  It is exhausting.  One on one, we work through grammar and vocabulary; we'll do fun things like make crêpes and play games or we'll watch adverts on youtube.  Sometimes the words flow easily and the lessons are quickly grasped whereas others are more of a struggle as I try to wrap my head around le girondif and curse the masculine/feminine forms.  I've come home laughing that my teacher had reprimanded me for not answering in full sentences which unexpectedly sounded as if I'd been listening to myself several years prior with my FSL students in Canada.  The tables had turned and now I found myself une étudiante once more.

It's been good.  It's been good to flex my brain a little more.  It's been good to polish up my language skills and it's been good to feel the slightest bit more productive.


{On that note, tonight is Joe's first Norwegian lesson.  His company finally got around to arranging lessons at the office.  We asked if I could also attend but unfortunately, they wouldn't allow it so I've instructed Joe to pay extra special attention so that he could teach me afterwards.}

Cruising to Kristiansand, Norway

Back in August, Joe and I jumped in the car and drove 3 hours Southeast of Stavanger to Kristiansand.  We had been hearing about this Southernmost city in Norway for some time particularly as a summer destination and with the summer quickly leaving us, we jumped at the opportunity to spend a night there when the weather looked promising.

It's a quaint, little town with a distinctly beachy feel and surprisingly enough, the most visited city by tourists in all of Norway.  It's home to the second largest port in Norway and if you plan on bringing your car from Continental Europe to tour this Scandinavian country, it's quite likely you'll arrive first in Kristiansand.

Joe and I booked a room at the brand new Scandic Bystranda hotel right on the water.  We walked and walked and walked, exploring the centre of town on foot and dined at Bølgen and Moi, located right on a waterway, Saturday evening.  Sitting on the terrace, we watched boats pull in for ice cream and groups of people having cocktails in their boat before heading out for the night.  After a sunset stroll to walk off a large dinner, we capped off the night with a bottle of champagne on the hotel's second floor terrace.

Kristiansand's stunning new Concert House

From the terrace of the Scandic Bystranda

On Sunday, we jumped in the car and drove up the hill behind the city to Banaheia, a large park with several walking paths and a fresh water lake often used for swimming.  We weaved through the trails until we found Café Generalen, a lovely little restaurant with a great outdoor dining area in the park where we had lunch before jumping back in the car and returning to Stavanger.

Cafe Generalen

I can see why Kristiansand would be a popular destination for families in the summer.  It's abundance of parks, playgrounds and beaches make it a great destination to bring kids when the sun is out.  We enjoyed its laid back nature and being that the town is very pedestrian friendly, it was great to park the car and explore leisurely on foot.

And the drive home was pretty darn nice too...